I gazed out at the jewel green islands scattered across the crystal-clear water as the sea breeze grabbed at my hair. Drinking in the salty air sent me back to a childhood spent on the Kentish coast, with a decidedly wilder sea. As calm as a lake, the Seto Inland Sea stretched as far as the eye could see and it was only the thrumming of the ferry engines which broke the calm solitude. The rest of the passengers had taken the sensible decision to wait in the warm lower deck until we reached our destination, Naoshima.
It had taken us only 20 minutes to reach Naoshima from Uno Port, a busy ferry port on Honshu, but it felt like being transported to a different world. Yayoi Kusama’s giant red pumpkin greeted us with a shout as we drew into Miyanoura Port. It was immediately apparent that I had been plunged into a world of art. I wandered the streets and saw the passion and expression of local and international artists everywhere. With only four thousand residents, the streets are relatively quiet but for the tide of tourists which flood Naoshima with the arrival of each ferry.
The Art House Project in Naoshima’s Honmura district resonated with me the most. Artists have transformed empty buildings in residential areas into living, breathing works of art. Visitors are encouraged to interact with the local residents, many of whom participated in the creation of the Art House Project. As a big fan of James Turrell, Backside of the Moon particularly sparked my interest. The dark, charred wooden walls of the Tadao Ando designed Minamidera, sliced across the sandy landscape. Entering the exhibit in imposed silence, I was led through a darkening maze of passages before blindly fumbling my way onto a bench. Unable to even see my hands, I felt some panic as I started to feel detached from my body in the inky black. As I adjusted to this new reality, I entered an almost meditative state and continued to stare, unseeing, into the blackness. James Turrell’s total mastery of light is best experienced in person, so I won’t give away any more spoilers.
It was in the artificial solitude of the exhibit, that I had the chance to consider the beauty of the isolated islands of the Seto Inland Sea and how they have become famous worldwide. Naoshima is home to art created by the greats: Andy Warhol, Yayoi Kusama, Monet and Lee Ufan to name but a few. With the collaboration of artists around the world, the local community of these islands have transformed their streets and surroundings into art which inspires and rejuvenates.
The region is home not only to Naoshima, but also the smaller islands of Teshima and Inujima which can be easily accessed by ferry or private boats. The Seto Inland Sea provides some of the most exquisite seafood in Japan and affords fun and relaxation for all the family. I would highly recommend taking a few days to enjoy not only the art but also the food, culture, scenery, and so much more!