Centuries ago, this stunning valley that runs through the Central Alps was used as an extremely important trade route, and merchants would travel its 40-mile length to reach local villages and the neighbouring Gifu Prefecture. This trade route eventually became part of the much longer Nakasendo Way, the 310-mile route connecting Kyoto and Edo. Due to travel restrictions imposed by the shogunate, the journey along this route was predominantly made on foot, and as a result, small ‘postal towns’ developed along the way to provide travellers with resting places. The Kiso Valley has retained a few of these and preserves their traditional buildings and atmosphere. The most famous of these are Tsumago, Magome and Narai.
Many people visit the Kiso Valley to see these old-fashioned towns and to spend a day walking between Tsumago and Magome along the mountain path. Tsumago is quaint, with residents working hard to preserve the Edo-period atmosphere. The small wooden houses with sliding paper doors remind one of the tea houses of old Gion and the mountain backdrop makes the town feel cosy and secluded. During the day, these buildings open their doors to sell local snacks, and the residents are always happy to have a chat.
If you fancy something even more secluded and less frequented, then I would suggest heading to the nearby Atera Keikoku area, even deeper into the mountains. This area belongs to the Atera Valley, which branches off from the main Kiso Valley. A route named ‘Sapphire Road’ takes you down this small valley and following countless twists and turns down the narrow road, you are treated to a glistening river, luscious green trees, and majestic mountainside. Here you can spot different pools, small waterfalls, and various wildflowers such as azaleas and rhododendrons, as well as hinoki (Japanese cypress) trees. There are various areas to park at the edge of the road so you can explore on your way, and small signposts with information about the individual scenic spots, with descriptions also written in English.
Towards the end of the route through the valley is a tiny car park. At the edge of the carpark is a little way down to the river, a few metres below. The valley is narrow and cosy, with mountain walls hugging the shallow waters as they cascade over the silver rocks. The river along the entire valley is the most stunning crystal-clear blue-green, hence the name ‘Sapphire Road’. I have never seen such inviting water. The valley is deep, and as you look up to the mountains surrounding you, you see a small bridge over the river – you can also head up here for a clearer view. There are large boulders you can sit atop, and if you are willing to get your feet a little wet you can carefully walk down part of the river, around the bend to find yourself in complete solitude with the stunning surroundings.
If you are exploring this region with a rental car, make sure to see some of the true magic of the Central Alps. The postal towns are gorgeous, but are well known, and so it is a good idea to do a bit of self-guided exploring through the smaller valleys that other people may not know to venture out to, even though they are accessible with a car. There are other scenic spots such as bridges and gorges in the area – a wonderful respite from the bustling city life you will experience in Tokyo or Kyoto.